Name: Paige Nicole Triola
School: Lafayette College
Major: Biological Sciences
Program: SFS Costa Rica, Spring 2012

Reflecting on her spring semester with SFS, alumna Paige Triola gives a rich description of a day in the field – and in the mud – at a traditional sugarcane mill in the small town of El Sur, Costa Rica.

There was a hole in my rubber boot. Being one of the 34 sodden students crossing the small yellow creek, this was a less than thrilling discovery for me. We were in the tiny community of El Sur, Costa Rica, a town of about 60 people. Our purpose for trudging through the rain was to observe the old fashioned method of grinding sugarcane in the town’s nearby sugar mill. I gripped my soggy umbrella and tried gingerly tip-toeing the rest of my way across the stream in order to avoid any more icy water rushing into my unreliable footwear. Through the sheets of rain I could see a small barn-like structure in the distance. A brown calf with enormous ears and glassy black eyes gazed at us curiously as we plodded in a sullen herd past its cozy-looking pen, probably wondering what strange type of cattle we were.

As we filed into the dank wooden mill, a few other girls and I tiredly plunked down on a bench and assessed our surroundings. In the center of the room was some sort of grinder with a large wheel attached to it. Two massive oxen yoked together, looking very bored, stood near the wheel, attached to the structure by a long wooden pole. A plump, smiling man in a rain soaked grey t-shirt gave us a brief introduction in Spanish, explaining the significance of the traditional sugar mill. He then proceeded to ask for volunteers to feed stalks of sugarcane into the grinder.

Two students hesitantly pushed the stalks into the mouth of the contraption, while a small boy with a long stick swatted the oxen to prompt them to walk in a wide circle around the room, thus turning the wheel and grinding the juice out of the sugarcane. It was a fascinating process, and I enjoyed watching the juice rush out of the stalks while the boy strutted importantly behind the oxen, eager to show off his control over the two lumbering beasts. After a pitcher was filled with juice, we each received a cup full of the sugary liquid. It had a sweet, woody taste that elicited grimaces from the faces of those who sampled it. The best part of the process was yet to come.

Two large vats were filled with the remaining sugar cane juice, and it was heated and stirred for about ten minutes while everyone gathered round to watch. Gradually the mixture began to thicken, and it was poured into a wooden trough where it cooled into a caramel colored, fudge-like consistency: sugarcane candy! Everyone helped themselves to spoonfuls of the delicious concoction. We were amazed at how quickly stalks of sugarcane could be transformed into creamy, sugary candy.

Soon it was time to move on to the place where bees were kept to produce honey. Using a small pocket knife, Ronald, a carpenter and beekeeper, cut up a glistening golden honeycomb and let every student have a gooey section to nibble on. I examined the beautiful pattern of the honeycomb and marveled at the amber liquid that oozed from it before popping it in my mouth.

Later, we hiked back to the main area of town and went to the “meeting house” where a few members of the community were seated to talk to us about the history of El Sur. Our large group sat attentively at tables, listening to the struggles of a town that has been through many transitions, from private property to agriculture, and now to ecotourism. As I listened, I couldn’t help but admire the current residents for remaining in tiny El Sur and making it an amazing place to experience.

The discussion was followed by a delicious dinner cooked by a few of the local women and hike planned by Edgardo, our tropical ecology professor. The hike was optional, but I wouldn’t have missed it for anything. At 7:30pm, the group of rubber boot-clad, headlamp-wearing students was ready to see the nightlife of El Sur. We were not disappointed. Almost everywhere I shone my light, I found a different species of tree frog or alien-like insect. Cries of “Edgardo!” every few minutes had our professor running from student to student as mysterious creatures were illuminated in the darkness.

I was in my element. I wanted to stay in the forest all night searching for new amphibians and reptiles, literally leaving no stone unturned. When the time finally came for us to turn around and head back, I straggled behind, trying to cast the beam of my headlamp on every surface and make just one more discovery. I heard the weary voice of one of my professors telling me to catch up with everyone lest I get left behind. Still filled with excitement over all of the events of the day and night, I hardly noticed the cold water that gushed into my rubber boot as I once again crossed the small stream.

The simple pleasures of watching sugarcane being transformed into candy, eating honey right off the comb, and catching incredible animals in the forest made me realize how little I need in life to be truly content. Just being out in nature gives me a sense of fulfillment that I hope to find in a career someday. The time I spent in El Sur, and Costa Rica in general, opened my eyes to the beauty and fragility of the natural world, and our responsibility to live in harmony with it.

Learn more about Sustainable Development Studies in Costa Rica

Name: Doug Rice
School: Clark University
Major: Environmental Science
Program: Marine Management Studies, Turks & Caicos

What did you like most about the SFS experience?

Being in the water everyday.  If I can live my life without my swimsuit completely drying, I’ll be happy.

You’ve been in the country for a full semester – tell us your impressions of it now.

I love it here!  There are certain things that seem really backwards and everyone runs on island time, but that’s how life is here and I wouldn’t change it for the world.

What is life at the field station really like? What are the best and the most challenging parts of living at a remote field station?

Absolutely amazing!  The best part, for me, was the people.  These are the some of the greatest people I’ve ever met and I’ve definitely grown as close to them as anyone else in such a short amount of time.  A large part of that is a product of the Center itself.  The only challenge for me was that no clothes or sheets ever got clean, but if that’s my worst complaint then I’ve got it made!

What ended up being your biggest challenge this semester both academically and culturally?

Academically was dealing constructively with differing points of view between students and a member of the faculty. Culturally it was going up and talking to random people for my Directed Research.  Everyone on the island is extremely friendly if you get past the initial awkwardness of the whole thing.

What is the best memory you have from the semester? Give some highlights.

Impossible to pick one.  Diving in some of the most diverse waters in the world at least twice a week (almost every day during DR); duck-diving with eagle rays; Sunday afternoon adventures to Dove Cay, Shark Bay, Coast Guard; and finally, every minute spent with the most amazing people I’ve ever met.

Give three adjectives that best describes how you are feeling right now.

Devastated (that I have to go home), Enlightened (about how to spend the rest of my life), and Loved (I may never see some of these friends again but I will certainly never forget them)

Name: Kristin Partin
School: University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
Major: Political Science
Program: Wildlife Management Studies, Tanzania & Kenya

What did you like most about the SFS experience?

I haven’t the faintest idea of what to name the experience I find most nzuri sana.  I do know that I cannot express well enough the appreciation I have in finding that I can step outside of my comfort zone, my major in political science, and find a rewarding and utterly successful experience working with SFS in East Africa.  It’s a brilliant gift to carry with yourself, knowing that there are always other options for your life.

You’ve been in the country for a full semester – tell us your impressions of it now.

I stepped off the plane in Tanzania almost 14 full weeks ago with a head full of comical impressions of the area, coupled with a fervent desire to complete the puzzle that was “Tanzania,” and “Kenya,” in my mind.  What I’ve found is a place that isn’t a puzzle to be completed, but a painting that is ever expanding.  East Africa is full of rich colors – likely composed of the brilliant reds of the Kenyans, and the greens, yellows, and blues of the Tanzanians.  It hosts textures not of a flat canvas, but a sculpture of acacia thorns, red soil, maize leaves, and a soft kanga cloth.  I’ve never stopped finding something beautiful about the area, and I don’t believe I ever could.

What is life at the field station really like? What are the best and the most challenging parts of living at a remote field station?

Life at the field station is relaxed and friendly.  When we first arrived, our professors were quick to fill us in on the busy schedule we had ahead of us in preparation for our Directed Research.  Classes were quick, our activities for our free days were always fun, and Directed Research was intensive.  But through it all we had an amazing family of staff and friends to keep spirits high, and we even had a vervet monkey act as a temporary mascot.  Although, I’m pretty sure the vervet was more interested in the snacks on the tables than distracting us during DR.

It’s always wonderful to have such a large camp, as there are always places to go when you need time to yourself.  The one challenge I would name would be that if you aren’t careful with your snacks, little critters tend to enjoy them too.

What ended up being your biggest challenge this semester both academically and culturally?

Academic challenge: I knew coming into the program that I would be participating in academics that I wasn’t accustomed to.  Studying ecology and wildlife is not something I find in political science.  So getting used to the work style was interesting.

Cultural challenge: There were many times I had to watch what I said, because I tend to throw out a lot of American South-East adages.  The locals weren’t always comfortable being called “sweetheart” or “darlin’,” but they were always happy to help me with my Kiswahili!

What is the best memory you have from the semester? Give some highlights.

This is always such a difficult question to answer! Tanzania and Kenya both have fantastic gifts to offer.  I’ll try to keep it to three.

1. My favorite animal is a lion.  Every chance I had to see a lion was exciting, because I also had learned so many cool facts about them too.  For instance, the color, density, and length of a lion’s mane are indicators of strength and virility, not a tool for protection.

2. My homestay with my Maasai family was definitely a favorite.  We really engaged in the daily lifestyle, and I never knew how fun it could be to herd goats to water.  Also, giving them a day of laughter at our attempts at Kimaasai was fun.

3. Okay, another lion story.  During our expedition in Serengeti a lion decided to visit our camp.  It was nighttime, and we were sitting around the campfire when we heard the notorious roar and grunting of a lion.

Give three adjectives that best describes how you are feeling right now.

Enchanted. Fulfilled. Wistful.

Name: Patrick Ronay
School: Gonzaga University
Major: Environmental Studies
Program: Sustainable Development Studies, Costa Rica

What did you like most about the SFS experience?

The interplay between our travels and academic undertakings.  The collaboration between faculty for us students to extract the maximum benefit from every circumstance was quite evident on trips.  It was a privilege to see so many of the ecosystems that Costa Rica harbors all the while being with thirty-four other students who were gleaning different lessons from each scenario.

You’ve been in the country for a full semester – tell us your impressions of it now.

My three months in Costa Rica has led to an environment that in scope isn’t very wide but is endlessly deep in experiences.  My impression is fuller and more vivid primarily because of the people and relationships that developed through the semester.  It was interesting to learn about the problems – environmentally, socially, economically – this country faces that I was previously unaware of and that helped in making the country all the more real and distinct.  Now I realize the length of time and activities in Costa Rica allowed for an “ethic of place” and subsequent affection to be developed, which is a wonderful byproduct of our educational endeavor and perhaps what SFS is all about.

What is life at the field station really like? What are the best and the most challenging parts of living at a remote field station?

The best moments are typically the most spontaneous.  In my case, that meant many conversations spanning from the personalities of respective parents to favorite cheeses.  Though I may not remember the minute details of all these interactions, they enriched me in immeasurable ways.

The most challenging aspect was living with thirty-three other college students.  We all have different lifestyles and preferences; these differences produced, at times, a contagious behavior of complaining which put a damper on my enjoyment of the program.

What ended up being your biggest challenge this semester both academically and culturally?

In the academic arena, the composition of scientific papers was the biggest challenge.  My collegiate courses prior to SFS had not been as science intensive, not to say my university had under-prepared me, but rather my intellectual strengths lie elsewhere.  This was overcome (or perhaps “managed” is the better term) with help and advice from my peers.  Additionally, for the final Directed Research portion, I was fortunate to have a professor who was patient and understanding in dealing with my shortcomings.

Culturally, the biggest challenge was the language barrier.  This was most evident with my host family with whom I continued our relationship beyond the weekend in February.  Prior to, and when the time came to say goodbye, my limited vocabulary did not allow for an adequate expression of emotion.  Using English, I can ramble and describe my state of mind but I couldn’t do so in Spanish.  I find solace in knowing that this is all a part of the immersion process and that the Gomez family understood my difficulties.

What is the best memory you have from the semester? Give some highlights.

Our appreciation dinner for the families in Atenas who hosted students for a weekend included a talent show.  In attempt to impress, us students, led by our very own Ms. Amanda Lam, performed a choreographed dance to the first two minutes of Michael Jackson’s “The Way You Make Me Feel.”  Now this opportunity excited me greatly as I have a propensity (or so I’ve been told) for the performing arts.  We practiced the dance nearly every day for the ten days leading up to the dinner and those sessions produced some of the funniest moments in Costa Rica.  When the time came to take the stage we discovered that we had about half the amount of area we had been practicing on.  Nevertheless, the show went on, and the dance was enjoyed by all.

Give three adjectives that best describes how you are feeling right now.

Fortunate, Bewildered, Enlightened

Name: Asha Misra
School: University of Rhode Island
Major: Wildlife Management
Program: Wildlife Management Studies, Kenya & Tanzania

What did you like most about the SFS experience?

This seems like an impossible question to answer! I think that my favorite part of this experience has been spending time in two different countries. Upon entering the program, I had no idea how different my experiences in Kenya and Tanzania would be, but they really are like different worlds. Having the opportunity to get to know both places so well has been truly amazing.

You’ve been in the country for a full semester-  tell us your impressions of it now.

Kenya was the epitome of my mental image of Africa. The vast, open, flat plains and towering Acacias were exactly how I pictured them. In my first impressions of Kenya, I wrote about how friendly the people were. From the first to the last minute of my time in Kenya, absolutely everyone I encountered wanted to chat with me and shake my hand.

The second half of the semester has been very different, but equally as beautiful. As we crossed the border into Tanzania, the flat plains were replaced with rolling hills; the Acacias with baobabs and other broadleaf trees, even conifers! The people here have been just as friendly, and as they are more attached to their Kiswahili here in Tanzania, I’ve gotten a lot of practice on my many walks into the town near camp.
I have really become attached to these two incredible places, and I know that someday I’ll return.

What is life at the field station really like? What are the best and the most challenging parts of living at a remote field station?

Life at the field stations has, overall, been great! Sharing every living space and every meal with my peers has really become a norm. That said, I think that sharing close quarters at all times has been the most challenging part. However, this has given me opportunities to get to know my peers, and even the staff members, so well, and has brought us all so close. For that reason, I think that living so close together is also the best part living in such remote locations.

What ended up being your biggest challenge this semester, both academically and culturally?

My biggest challenges have definitely been Directed Research and the homestay experiences. Going into both of these experiences, I didn’t really know what to expect. Directed Research was challenging because some things, like heavy rains before a day of research in an area with no roads, and then getting stuck in the mud for three hours, you just can’t avoid or plan ahead for. However, with the unceasing kindness of seemingly every East African, we always had help finding our way out of these “sticky” situations. Designing my own project and interpreting the results for my DR write-up was definitely challenging also, but with guidance from the most knowledgeable, patient, and understanding faculty, the end result was fantastic.

The homestays, with the Maasai in Kenya and the Iraqw in Tanzania, were challenging purely because of the huge “unknowns” involved. I didn’t know what my family’s home would look like, what every-day tasks they would ask me to help with, what the food would be like. I knew what past students had said about the homestays. I knew they had raved about them, even asked if more could be squeezed into our schedules. I still went into my first homestay a nervous wreck, thinking I would be miserable. Boy, was I wrong! Spending a day with families from these two tribes taught me something very important: even though they live differently than me and my family, face different challenges than we do, they are not very different. They loved to play, and laugh, and learn, and help one another, just like my family does.  Although they were challenging, these experiences were also some of the most rewarding I’ve ever had.

What is the best memory you have from the semester? Give some highlights.

Another seemingly impossible question! Pretty much every memory I have from this semester is the best. Some highlights, though, were the two week-long expeditions in Lake Nakuru and Serengeti National Parks. Taking day-long game drives in the vast Serengeti, never seeing the same spot twice, and exploring every corner of the small, fenced-in Lake Nakuru National Park are just a few of the memories that will be with me forever.

Give three words that best describe how you are feeling right now.

Fulfilled. Ready. Grateful.

Name: Eduardo Guevara, Ph.D.Ed.
Position: Lecturer in Environmental Policy & Socioeconomics
Program: Marine Resource Studies, Turks & Caicos

Last week the students completed the spring 2012 Directed Research (DR) project. It has been a very steep learning curve for every student, with many challenges and opportunities to grow. I provided them with the perspective of “connecting the dots” between science and socioeconomic values, linking the scientific process to the surrounding communities.

Below, I cite two examples of their answers to the question: “How am I going to apply the experience acquired in this course in the rest of my life?”

Quote 1: “… In the past my classes had focused on memorizing laws and regulations first, and then applying them to situations… I learned this semester to not take things at face value. This class really taught me how to think before I speak. There is a whole other layer to the world that I plan to keep my eye out for… As I head off into the real world, I hope that I will remember to look a little closer at things before I decide what they are all about….”

Quote 2: “…This class has taught me more about the challenges surrounding environmental policy making than I would have learned at home, due to being able to see the consequences of these challenges firsthand. I learned about the difficulty of teaching someone about “sustainability” in the long term, when they live day-to-day, basically as indentured servants to processing plants. I learned that implementing regulations without proper education and consultation of the people that are most affected by it will not work…”.

Name: Isabella Lowery
School: Whitman College
Major: Biological Sciences
Program: Wildlife Management Studies, Kenya

Adding to the list of new experiences I’ve gained on this trip, today I presented a gift and sang a song to a newlywed couple at a Maasai wedding celebration.

A few weeks ago during the data collection stage of our Directed Research, one of our guides mentioned that he was going to a friend’s wedding this weekend. Soon after, we had secured an invitation for our group and convinced our professors to let us take the afternoon off from writing papers to go.

While we all felt a little trepidation upon arriving (imagine twenty foreign strangers dropping in to your wedding), in true Kenyan and Maasai style we were quickly made to feel comfortable and welcomed. There were many people standing and sitting around, enjoying sodas and each others’ company. About half of the guests were dressed in traditional Maasai shuka and jewelry, while the other half were wearing western style clothes, some speaking Maasai, and others Swahili or English. The bride and groom, looking somber, were decked out in beautiful beaded shukas and elaborate jewelry, including a headpiece on the bride’s part.

The official marriage ceremony had taken place earlier in the day, and the dancing was yet to come, but we got to witness and participate in a gift-giving procession, including impassioned speeches from friends and family of the couple. Each gift, including goats, a bed, and many wrapped packages, was received by the couple who then posed for a photo with the gift and the giver. Our group presented a small gift, gave a small speech, and with some prompting sang “Lean on Me.”

I think its indicative of how much my time in East Africa has influenced me that I regarded very little of what I saw today as new or strange!

Name: Emily Johnson
School: Wesleyan University
Major: Biological Sciences
Program: Rainforest Studies, Australia

The week began with 27 people working diligently to put the final touches on a month’s worth of work and has transitioned into handshakes and jubilation as that work went to the presses. With a hard copy in hand, a new era has arrived! We will now present our hard-earned knowledge at Community Night in Yungaburra! Through our research, we have dug up the facts to influence new legislation on wild dog control, we have uncovered hidden agendas within big box companies that drive out local farmers, and we have discovered that in many ways, selective logging is not as sustainable as it is made to seem.

As our DR’s come to a close, we are embarking on a new journey. A magical mystery journey! With our last few days we are at the mercy of our fantastic Student Affairs Manager (SAM). Today as part of our tour, we went to the local biodynamic farm to taste all their delicious dairy products. Tomorrow, who knows where we will end up; the possibilities for adventure are endless!

The semester began with a lesson overlooking the entire Atherton Tablelands, the area we have all begun to call home. The semester ends with another trip to the lookout. Looking back to that first summit, I never would have dreamed that I could have learned so much about myself and a foreign place. This has been the experience of a lifetime. Until next time Australia, we will all miss you dearly!

Name: Christian Kiffner, Ph.D.
Position: Lecturer in Wildlife Management
Program: Wildlife Management Studies, Tanzania

What are the consequences of climate change for local livelihoods in northern Tanzania? Which wildlife species are used by traditional healers? Which wildlife species compete most for scarce resources with the abundant livestock? How many elephants, wildebeest, zebra and other species are in this ecosystem? Which areas do wildlife species use for migrating between protected areas? Do different forms of protection affect behavior and demography of wildlife?

To address these and related issues, SFS students went out to the field, counted and observed animals, interviewed local stakeholders and compiled a wealth of data. Surely, the nine days of fieldwork were packed with memorable experiences: exploring largely unbeaten tracks in the wilderness, close encounters with elephants, conversations with local stakeholders which opened new perspectives and views, and great teamwork among students, drivers, guides and faculty. To the end, heavy rain made fieldwork more challenging and occasionally field crews had to work hard to get cars out off the mud. Despite all the positive, adventurous experiences, we also directly experienced the challenges of this ecosystem at first hand. In one study area, we recorded several elephant carcasses that had been poached recently. This range of experiences, however, enables students to put their research into perspective.

Currently, we are analyzing the data and will soon start writing up the reports. Much of our research has direct relevance to the conservation of wildlife in this amazing ecosystem and to the livelihood of its people. We are looking forward to present the results to all local stakeholders in the end of the semester.

Name: Benedict Scheuer
School: Yale University
Major: Environmental Studies
Program: Marine Resource Studies, Turks & Caicos

I came here to study the ocean—yes, that is completely true. As my time on this island shortens to quiet moments of, “I’m not ready to leave this place,” I’m starting to make sense of what truly makes this study abroad program unique. I can tell you surely that the last three months of my life have been deeply involved in scientific research and, naturally, an academic experience like no other I have ever had. There is no doubt in my mind that I am extremely grateful for this. However, I want to make clear something that I view as far more important than anything learned by means of a classroom, excel spreadsheet, or measuring transect along the ocean floor.

Take me back to one of my first nights here: a night of stars and a few strangers with backs to the floor and shy eyes to the sky.  It’s funny how simple stargazing can be the pivotal thread of a new friendship, and there are plenty of constellations here to admire. Slip further to the present and you will have found me around a glowing fire, learning the laughs of everyone’s dimly lit face, playing silly games, and eventually making the choice to sleep on the beach with waves and the little dreams of those who were becoming closer to me in kinship with every sunny and, in this case, sandy wake up. Take me to the sunsets, countless as they are, and it will have me smiling; despite all needs, I can count on all lives to gently hum in unison for the silent dip of orange beneath the blue waters.

As our time here dwindles I have realized that, though beautiful by nature, all of these moments would quickly pale in solitude. Thus, rather than claiming a lack of will to leave this place, it’s really the people my heart will miss: the shared struggles, successes, sadness, and times we couldn’t stop from singing. It may be a bit before I find a bench like the one overlooking the beauty of our Center’s ocean view, but I’m confident that when I do, regardless of its location, I will be amongst the company of the friends I have grown to love under these South Caicos stars and waves.