SFS Center for Sustainable Development Studies
March 31, 2009

Academic Update
We are almost at the end of our journey amidst the beautiful country of Nicaragua. So far, we have been to the Island of Ometepe and have experienced their twin volcanoes and the puzzling dynamics around the establishment of a new national park, Volcan Maderas. We have observed complex petrogliphs dispersed among cattle pastures, and enjoyed the incredible views of Lake Cocibolca. After Ometepe, we moved on to Rivas and then to Granada, a colonial city full of history, whose beautiful architecture and laid back European atmosphere attracts most of the visitors to Nicaragua. We also experienced the contrast and hectic atmosphere of the capital city, Managua.

Nicaragua continues to be a question mark for all of us. It is a country gifted with extremely beautiful natural attractions, a biodiversity heritage whose surface we have barely scratched, and a history so complex and dramatic that makes it daunting to explore. And then we are faced with the ever recurring question: Is there a chance for sustainability options that are more just for the Nicaraguan people? Nicaragua is faced with this and many more questions. One mixed blessing of the current government, and the double-talk populist discourse of the president, is that tourism is developing at a very slow pace, increasing the chances to integrate more local entrepreneurs despite the uncertainty associated with the activity. Perhaps this is good, after observing the case of many areas in Costa Rica that have been overly abused by the international tourism industry. Nicaragua is a different planet, illustrating the fact that sustainable development is context-dependent and defined by the combination of human history, natural factors, and economic conditions.
-Gerardo Avalos, Center Director

Student Reflections
I´m sitting at the steps of a striking yellow church that sits across from a park so filled with activity I can’t find an available bench. Food and crafts are everywhere and music and dancing ensues. Right now, the sun sets behind the clutter of evening interactions. Granada is known to be the gem of Nicaragua with its Spanish architecture and European-style cafes, but it also contains something incredibly characteristic of Nicaragua. 

We’ve only spent four days here, but I’ve already found the country to be surprisingly misunderstood. Ometepe, the island we explored for three days, is a beautiful representation of Nicaragua. Valient volcanoes are overhead, surrounded by a lake so big you forget it’s just a lake. The dirt roads are magnificent and the livestock are a delightful treat. The houses aren’t exactly brick, but they seem to survive the rainy season. Amid all this “backwardness,” as some prefer to call it, is so much authenticity. Ometepe, like all of Nicaragua, doesn’t try to be something its not. It does, however, contain elements of modernity. Small and medium farms export to the States and Europe, but everyone else lives on subsistence agriculture, even the hostels. We also encountered progressive organic farms that understand the importance of crop diversity, shade-grown coffee, and eco-tourism. Although poverty does exist here in Nicaragua, this place is full of life, expression, and audacity.  
-Hilla Benzaken, Clark University

Before coming to Nicaragua I had very little expectations of the country. We were warned that it would be very different from Costa Rica, but I didn’t know what to expect. It was actually nice to be able to form my own opinions.

The first place we visited was Ometepe Island. Ometepe almost felt like its own country isolated by Lake Nicaragua and centered around its two volcanos. We stayed at a beautiful hostel on the shore of the lake. We didn’t get to interact with many locals, but were able to meet many backpackers from all over the world. It reminded me again how lucky we are every time we have our private buses or vans waiting to take us to another beautiful part of Costa Rica or Nicaragua. It also inspired me to work harder on my Spanish so I can easily travel through Central America someday.

I was sad to leave Ometepe and hope that I can return someday to hike Volcano Maderas and swim in the lake once more. We then headed to Granada whose streets are filled with restaurants and small shops in beautiful old building restored and painted with bright colors. I could feel the Spanish influence mixed with the Central American spirit, creating a fun atmosphere rich in history.

The poverty and pollution were prevalent in both Ometepe and Granada. Though it is very sad to witness, it is an important reality check as a privileged student from the United States is given the opportunity to study in such an amazing program in Costa Rica.

I am looking forward to spending the next few days in Granada and getting the chance to interact with Nicaragurans who have so far been nothing but friendly. After studying Nicaragua in our culture class, I can tell that understanding the history is vital to understanding the culture. It is something that has sparked my interest and inspired me to continue to read about. I hope to return to Nicaragua one day to explore this beautiful country more.
-Hannah Davis, University of Vermont